Departing civilisation behind at Cairns, we ventured along the Peninsula Developmental Road. This further descended into a deeply corrugated track which wound along the way of the telegraph line, between giant rainforest trees and also across innumerable rivers approximately the little Aboriginal area of Bamaga on Cape York. “The Entrance to HELL — go back if possible”, stated an encouraging handwritten sign as we headed off into the true wilderness!

River crossings of all manner and form punctuated our journey — with axle-deep red mud, decrepit handmade bridges (your odd log missing occasionally to add to task), deep sand or fast flowing water to keep you alert. It was a vintage four wheel drive venture. The biggest challenge, however, was the crossing of the Jardine River.

Even in the drier times of year, the Jardine River, just 35 km to the south of Bamaga, was a wide, not too deep, quick-flowing river. In 1984, the luxury of a tiny car punt had just become available to carry the vehicles of the less adventurous across this famous barrier to the princely sum of $15. Many heated battles then erupted about the banks of the Jardine while cautious wives and thrill-seeking partners debated the relative merits in the challenging river crossing plus the tame punt ride. As newlyweds, we too had each of our dispute here, but in our case it absolutely was the thrill-seeking wife whom desired the river adventure!

To drive across a river like this requires substantial preparation. A diesel motor like ours requires a prolonged air snorkel to bring in air from well over any possible water level. Tyres must be deflated, waterproof covers packed around the engine and openings for instance fuel tanks and doors have to be securely sealed up. We watched with interest as many vehicles attempted the crossing — and a lot failed, becoming stranded mid-river with waters swirling around the driver’s feet and camping gear floating at the rear of the vehicle!

Finally the thrill-seeking better half prevailed. A group of fellow Cape York drivers came to our assistance and loaned us a snorkel as well as covers which fitted our vehicle. So with our vehicle trussed up just like a Christmas lunch, we drove down in to the swirling waters of the heaving Jardine.

Across the river we drove, pushing a high bow-wave just before us. Steve said it felt so good he wanted to turn around and keep driving in the river! Then through a heart-stopping very deep hole close to the end and up the steep bank we went, conquerors of the Jardine. I bet they don’t have this much fun when doing one of the organised Cape York Tours.

Our dripping vehicle on the other side seemed little the worse for the adventure. However, it cost us more to replace the differential oils which had become waterlogged compared to little punt ride could have cost. So sanity prevailed upon our return journey 30 days later and the Landcruiser took a dry ride across the Jardine on the ferry!